Anyone that surfs or has surfed in Hawai`i knows that it is a privilege and a blessing to surf in its warm and clear waters. The feeling a surfer gets when they are on a wave is hard to describe, but I will do my best. The pleasure one get from surfing is exhilarating and addicting. Having nothing but the power of the ocean’s waves move you is a sensation of freedom. There is a sense of control but at the same time you are at the mercy of the powerful waves. This is what I find addicting to surfing, learning how to be one with the waves and enjoying every ride I take to the fullest. I am one of those surfers that is out in the water for hours. I take in everything that is around and below me. I watch others surf and learn from them, I peer off into the distance studying how each set rolls into breakers, I soak up every sun ray that darkens my skin, I absorb the salt air and sex wax that fills my nose and I enjoy the sense of leaving all my problems behind me on the shore.
It was another blistering hot summer day in Hawai`i and I did the best thing I knew what to do to escape the heat… SURF. I headed out on a Friday afternoon with two other girls that day (sisters) named Lei and Ying. We made our way to a surf spot called Canoes, right off the beach in Waikiki. We paddled out into the water at around 4pm. Dodging novice tourist and competing for the longest ride, we were having a good time and cooling off in the warm water. As the sun started to disappear below the horizon and the sky darken, less surfers stayed in the water.
Every Friday night off the shore of the Hilton Hawaiian Village in Waikiki are fireworks that are set off at around 7:45pm (Firework Info). Lei, Ying and I decided to stay out in the water and surf until the fireworks went off. It was going to be a full moon that Friday night and the warm air and water made it hard to paddle back into shore. As the night grew dimmer and transitioned into pitch black, the full moon brighten up the sky and reflected off the swells of the ocean. At this time it was just the three of us and the waves. There were no other surfers to compete for waves and no time schedule for us to keep. The radiating street lights of the Waikiki strip made it easy for us to pick a fixed point on land and keep us aware of where we were in the water.
I can’t remember whose idea it was but I remember hearing, “Let’s full moon naked night surf!” And with a quick glance at the vacant waters around us I smiled and said, “Ok!” We plopped off our boards and into the water, took our bikinis off and tightly tied them to our leashes (I must admit, I double knotted). Through the sound of the fireworks and the luminescence of the full moon we surfed naked and enjoyed the new found freedom of surfing we had not yet experienced before. It was just us three girls having fun and embracing the freedom of surfing to a different degree.
At about 8:30pm we hoped our knots held and put back on our bikinis and paddled our way back to the fluorescent shoreline. As we rinsed off our surfboards and showered at the beach we laughed and said, “I wonder when the next full moon will be?!”